The first of November

On this venerable, pensive and moving holiday of All Saints' Day (the exact opposite of its vulgar twin Halloween across the ocean), a friend and I hit a couple of cemeteries in order to pay a visit to the supposed area of Mozart's grave. We didn't get to Beethoven, Brahms and Schubert as planned, opting instead for the sad paltry remnants of the biggest late Renaissance castle in Austria, Schloss Neugebäude, and for the hot Maroni (chestnuts) sold in the alley - a valid defence against the chilling damp air.